Stian from Norway and his two horses rode the whole St. Olavsleden during the summer of 2024. We asked him a few question about his adventure, his relationship to horses, and what insights he gained during his journey.
Tell us a little more about yourself, where you come from and what you do?
– My name is Stian Holmen Lein. I come from a small coastal municipality in Trøndelag called Flatanger. I live in a small house with my wife and 3 children. On the farm we have GammelNorsk sheep and Icelandic horses Pippi and Balti, some chickens, a pig, two dogs and a cat. On a daily basis, I work as a quality manager, and therefore love working with animals and going on trips when I have time off.
When did you start your journey and when did you finish in Trondheim? How long did it take?
– I started from Sundsvall on 22 August, and arrived at Nidaros Cathedral on 13 September. I spent a little over 3 weeks with a full day of rest and two or three half days of rest.
How did you come up with the idea to ride St. Olavsleden?
– I wanted to ride a longer continuous trip, and stay outside with the horses along the way. Since the S:t Olavsleden is marked for horses, it was very convenient to ride along it. I hadn’t been in the Sundsvall-Åre area that much, so it was great to experience this area. And in addition, it was fun to ride across Sweden and Norway from the Bothnian Sea to the North Atlantic.
How did you prepare for the trip?
– The horses were well physically trained to ride long trips, both on trail and road. They were also well prepared for things they could be frightened by, such as cars, bicycles, towns, dogs, narrow alleys, bridges, tunnels, etc. I have good experience with outdoor life and managing alone outside, and only had proven equipment for overnight stays and trip. All hiking equipment was of the “UltraLight” type, so the pack horse carried a light pack.
I didn’t plan any stages or overnight stays, but just started from Sundsvall with food for two days and some cash to buy some hay if we rode past a stable or two. Taking each day as it came was a big part of the trip. I don’t have any social media to ask for help and tips on, but I met lots of kind and helpful people along the way. Everyone was amazing!
What insights did you gain along the way? Any good lessons for the future?
– I had plenty of time to reflect on life and which values are most important to me. When all other noise is peeled away from everyday life, and all that remains is to sleep, eat, stay warm and ride/walk, it became a little easier to see what really matters to me in my life. I learned that I have the willpower and stamina to keep going, no matter how cold, wet, hungry and tired I am. Several times I had to dig all the way to “the bottom of the cellar” to get out and arrange what the horses and I needed, and it gave a good feeling of strength.
I thought a lot about what priorities I should make in order to facilitate the most important values, and give life more of what gives joy, meaning and the feeling that you can do almost anything!
What was the best thing about riding the St. Olavsleden?
– All the nice, generous, warm and helpful people I met along the way!
What was the most difficult thing about riding the St. Olavsleden?
– There was not really anything that was difficult, but parts of the trail marked for horses naturally follow busy roads. In some places it is so narrow and unclear that it felt risky and uncomfortable to travel by horse. I led the horses during large parts of the trip along the roads, even though the horses are 100% safe with cars and trucks. Swedish drivers are very good at showing consideration!
Tell us about your relationship with horses!
– I could write many pages on this topic, but will try to keep it short. I have little faith in exercising what simple people like to call leadership; show who is the boss, or to “put in place” or “put in respect”. I believe it is frightening the horse, and leads to fear and uncertainty more than respect and trust.
I like to see my role as part of the pack, someone who shows calmness, security and predictability, someone who facilitates and can lead the way in scary situations, and someone who shows closeness and respect, and receives closeness and respect. We do a lot of fun and cozy things together. If the horse shows uncertainty, I rather dismount, walk in front and show the way. Then we can ride on when the horse is relaxed again.
Balti shows me with all his might how boring he thinks it is to go in a ring on a riding course, so we do not do that. We would rather go on a trip, because I can see he likes that. Maybe that is why he meets me at the gate when I arrive with a halter, and why he strolls into the trailer himself when we are going on a trip – Because he knows that we are going to do something fun! The same also applies to Pippi.
We do not have any rules for “personal space”. If the horse wants to scratch me, I help it scratch, as horses do in a herd. I camp in the pasture with the horses, because the herd must be gathered at night. I am part of the herd, and horses are not in the habit of trampling on each other in a herd. I like to lie in the grass in the pasture with the horses, because they know where to put their hooves down. I trust them.
Maybe that is why Balti can lay his head in my lap and fall into a deep sleep. Because we respect and trust each other. Feeling the weight of the big head in my lap, and feeling the relaxed warm body breathing calmly and feeling safe, that is the greatest happiness I can experience as a horse person.
Will you make a similar trip again sometime?
– A riding trip of 60 miles over 3 weeks, alone with two horses, without support or planned overnight stays, is quite a big project. I have no plans for such a long trip, but I will definitely ride the Sul – Skalstugu – Sul stage again, after Carl Johans Veg, with my wife. This was a magnificent stage! We are also planning a week-long trip along another road together, so there will probably be more similar but shorter trips in the future. Experiencing nature from horseback is an indescribably nice feeling; there is peace, harmony and presence in life!
Share three tips for someone who is curious about visiting St. Olavsleden, with or without a horse!
– If someone has a dream of walking St. Olavsleden, my very best advice is: Do it! It is a unique opportunity to be present in life in a way that everyday life does not give us the opportunity to do. It is a unique way to get to know yourself, experience resistance and to know your own capacity, meet animals and people and feel that you are living life here and now.
- Prepare yourself (and the horses) physically for walking long days. It’s not about training a lot of fitness, but about preventing injuries and wear and tear by training muscles, joints and tendons. Feel free to take some short sessions the first few days.
- Don’t think about the goal at the end of the trail or at the end of the day’s stage, but be openly present and experience every second along the way. Take time to enjoy a nice view, wade along a beach or chat to people you meet along the way. Don’t rush towards the goal, but instead put in an extra day or two.
- Don’t plan the whole trip in detail, but take what comes and let it be part of the adventure.
